1 stops in walking order

Historical

The wide, treeless plain of Krbava field south of Udbina is one of the most historically resonant landscapes in Croatia — the site of the catastrophic 9 September 1493 battle in which an Ottoman force under Hadum Yakub Pasha annihilated a Croatian noble host under Ban Emerik Derenčin. Thirteen thousand Croatian soldiers, including seven of the country's most powerful counts and most of the country's remaining medieval knightly class, died in a single afternoon; the memory shaped Croatian identity for the next five centuries. Today the plain is a quiet karst polje used for haymaking, but a small stone memorial cross marks the traditional battle spot, and two interpretive panels (Croatian and English) explain the events. The scale of the empty plain — 5 km long, 3 km wide, ringed by stark forested hills — makes it easy to visualise the medieval formations. The battle is the reason all remaining Croatian regalia (crown, mantle, sword) had to be handed to Hungary for safekeeping — most were later lost — and why Croatia has almost no surviving noble titles from before 1500. Combine with the memorial church above the plain for a moving half-day.

~30 min at this stop