Silba Island

The tiny island of Silba — 14 square kilometres, population 265, no cars allowed — is one of the most magical hideaways of the entire Adriatic and a beloved secret among Croatian intellectuals and artists who have been coming here for a century. The single village of Silba sits in the middle of the island on a low ridge with two harbours — one on each coast, so a boat can always find a lee — and is a beautifully preserved ensemble of 18th-century sea-captain villas set among cactus gardens and 100-year-old olive trees. The absolute must-see is the 'Toreta' — a mysterious circular spiral stone tower built in 1836 by a lovesick sea captain named Petar Marinić after his lover had emigrated to Australia; from the top you can see the whole of the Zadar archipelago. Silba is famous for two 'gorgeous coves': Sotorišće on the east coast and Papranica on the west, both sandy and shallow. There is a single small bakery, three tiny restaurants, one small grocery, and total peace: no vehicles at all except two service tractors. Access is by daily catamaran from Zadar (2 hours) or by car ferry from Zadar to Olib and then a short island-hopper boat. Come for a slow 3-day stay — day trips barely scratch the surface.