Stara Baška

At the end of a spectacular hairpin road that peels off from Punat and climbs across a moonscape of grazed karst, the small village of Stara Baška opens onto a chain of five untouched pebble coves widely regarded as the most beautiful on the island — turquoise water, white pebbles and dramatic backdrop cliffs that plunge from 300 metres straight into the sea. The largest and best-known is Oprna, tucked in the shadow of the Sokol peak; the smaller Zala and Poje coves further south are quieter and effectively naturist. This part of Krk has a strikingly different feel from the touristed north: barely any buildings, no promenade, no beach bars beyond a couple of seasonal shacks selling cold beer and grilled squid. Behind you rise the completely treeless slopes of the Kvarner karst grazed by the small local sheep whose milk goes into Krk's famous cheese; ahead is a wide-open view of Prvić island and, beyond it, the pale limestone flank of Rab. The road in is genuinely narrow — allow forty minutes each way from Punat and avoid meeting a tour bus. Bring water, a snorkel and reef shoes; the pebbles are large and the water drops quickly to swimmable depth. Best in June and September when temperatures are gentler and the coves are almost empty.